
Africa & Middle East · Seychelles
Seychelles
Granite boulders, the world’s largest seed and beaches that other beaches are measured against.
A hundred and fifteen islands of granite and coral four degrees south of the equator, with beaches so photographed that the real ones surprise you by being better. Mahé has the capital, the mountains and the airport; Praslin has the palm forest; La Digue has bicycles, ox carts and Anse Source d’Argent. Nothing here is cheap, but nothing here is like anywhere else either.
The palm: Coco de mer
Lodoicea maldivica grows only on Praslin and Curieuse. Its double coconut is the largest seed in the world, up to 25 kilograms, and the Vallée de Mai on Praslin is a UNESCO forest of them, together with five other palms found nowhere else. Sailors once thought the nuts came from a tree under the sea.
When to go
Sights
Vallée de Mai, Praslin
The coco de mer forest, with black parrots overhead and a guided walk under the fronds.
Anse Source d’Argent, La Digue
Pink sand, pale granite boulders and shallow water; arrive by bicycle before ten.
Morne Seychellois
Trails through cloud forest and tea plantations above Victoria.
Victoria
One of the world’s smallest capitals, with a clock tower, a market and a Hindu temple.
Beaches
Anse Lazio
Praslin’s north-west bay, boulders at both ends and water clear to the sand.
Beau Vallon
Mahé’s long, sheltered bay with restaurants, sunsets and a Wednesday night market.
Anse Intendance
The wild south of Mahé, big waves, no shade and nobody else.
Events
- Oct
Creole Festival
A week of music, food and dance across the islands in late October.
- Nov
SUBIOS underwater festival
Films and photography from the reefs, held in November.
- Apr
Carnaval International de Victoria
A three day international carnival parade in the capital.
For remote workers
A comfortable month: about €2,600
The Seychelles are for a month of remote work on Mahé rather than a year: the government offers a workcation permit, guesthouses on Mahé and Praslin are affordable by the month, and 4G is decent. Costs are high for food and transport, and hotel wifi on the smaller islands is slow.
Compare as a baseFor families
Beau Vallon on Mahé is calm, shallow and shaded by takamaka trees; Anse Lazio on Praslin has snorkelling from the sand. Between May and September the south-east trades bring waves and seaweed to some beaches, so ask locally which side is calm. The hospital on Mahé is adequate.
Rank for your familyThree things to know
- Split a week and a half between Mahé, Praslin and La Digue, using the fast ferries.
- April to May and October to November sit between the monsoons: calm sea, little wind, best visibility.
- Guesthouses and Creole takeaways cut costs dramatically compared with resorts; the beaches are all public.
Stories from here
Palms · 7 min read
A field guide to the palms you will actually see
Coconut, date, Canary, royal, fan, traveller’s. Six palms, how to tell them apart from a sunlounger, and what each one says about where you are.