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A woman on a beach beneath limestone cliffs with turquoise water
Limestone cliffs and a hidden beach (illustrative)

Asia · Philippines

Palawan

Limestone lagoons, island-hopping by bangka and coconut groves behind every cove.

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Palawan is a long thin island between the South China and Sulu seas, with the Bacuit archipelago at its northern end: limestone towers rising from lagoons in every shade of green. El Nido is the base for the boat tours, Coron has wrecks to dive and lakes inside the rock, and the road between them passes coconut groves, rice paddies and beaches with no one on them.

The palm: Coconut palm

The Philippines is the world’s second largest coconut producer, and Palawan’s coast is planted from the beach to the hills. Buri palms provide the fibre for hats and mats, and the nipa huts of the villages are thatched with palm. Coconut appears in breakfast, in the curry and in the vinegar on the table.

When to go

°Crainsea January: 31°C by day, 5 rainy days, sea 28°C31°February: 32°C by day, 3 rainy days, sea 28°C32°March: 33°C by day, 3 rainy days, sea 28°C33°April: 34°C by day, 3 rainy days, sea 29°C34°May: 33°C by day, 10 rainy days, sea 30°C33°June: 32°C by day, 16 rainy days, sea 29°C32°July: 31°C by day, 19 rainy days, sea 29°C31°August: 31°C by day, 19 rainy days, sea 29°C31°September: 31°C by day, 18 rainy days, sea 29°C31°October: 31°C by day, 16 rainy days, sea 29°C31°November: 31°C by day, 11 rainy days, sea 29°C31°December: 31°C by day, 8 rainy days, sea 28°C31°JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Typical daytime highs, rainy days per month (one drop is about four days) and sea temperature. Green bars are comfortable months, amber bars are hot or wet or cool, and the darker bars mark the best time to go.

Sights

Bacuit Bay island hopping

The lettered tours from El Nido: Big and Small Lagoon, Secret Beach, Shimizu Island.

Puerto Princesa underground river

A boat through eight kilometres of cave river, a UNESCO site.

Coron wrecks and Kayangan Lake

Japanese shipwrecks from 1944 in diving depth, and a lake so clear it looks empty.

Port Barton

The sleepy bay halfway up the coast, with its own islands and no crowds.

Beaches

  • Nacpan Beach

    Four kilometres of golden sand and coconut palms north of El Nido.

  • Las Cabañas

    El Nido’s sunset beach with bars and a zipline.

  • Duli Beach

    The surf beach of the north, quiet and wild.

Events

  • Jun

    Baragatan Festival

    Puerto Princesa’s founding festival of street dancing and food in June.

  • Apr

    Holy Week

    Processions across the island and full boats to the beaches afterwards.

  • Dec

    Pasko

    The Filipino Christmas starts in September and peaks with parol lanterns everywhere.

For remote workers

Internet2/5

A comfortable month: about €1,200

El Nido and Coron are for short stints: satellite internet has improved things, but power cuts and slow fibre are still part of life. Puerto Princesa, the capital, is more practical. Visa-free entry runs to 30 days and can be extended locally. For a real base, Cebu or Siargao have stronger communities.

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For families

Calm water4/5
Shade4/5
Medical care2/5

The lagoons on the island-hopping tours are calm and knee deep in places, and the bangka boats are an adventure in themselves. Town beaches in El Nido are not for swimming; Nacpan and Las Cabañas are. Medical care is basic beyond Puerto Princesa, so insurance and caution apply.

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Three things to know

  1. Fly to Puerto Princesa and drive five hours north, or fly direct into El Nido’s small airport.
  2. December to April is the dry season; the sea is calmest and the boats run every day.
  3. Carry cash and a dry bag; ATMs run out and boat tours get wet.

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