
Americas · United States, Hawaii
Maui
Coconut palms brought by canoe, a sunrise volcano and whales in the channel every winter.
Maui is two volcanoes joined by a valley, with dry, sunny beaches on the west and south coasts and a rainforest road to Hana on the east. Winter brings humpback whales into the channel by the thousand, summer brings calm seas and long days, and the top of Haleakalā at sunrise is above the clouds in any month. It is far and it is expensive, and it is the palm island most people dream about first.
The palm: Coconut palm
The Polynesians brought the coconut palm across the Pacific in their canoes as one of the plants they could not live without. Hawaii’s only native palms are the loulu fan palms, most of them rare, and the coconut groves at Kapalua and Hana are the planted descendants of that first voyage.
When to go
Sights
Haleakalā sunrise
Reserve a spot, drive up in the dark and watch the sun rise over the crater at 3,000 metres.
Road to Hana
Six hundred bends and fifty bridges through rainforest, waterfalls and bamboo groves.
Whale watching
Humpbacks breach off Lahaina and Kihei from December to April.
Molokini crater
A crescent of volcanic rock offshore with snorkelling in a hundred feet of visibility.
Beaches
Kaanapali
Three miles of sand on the west side with the Black Rock snorkel and resorts behind.
Wailea
A string of calm, sheltered beaches on the south shore.
Hamoa Beach
The crescent of grey-gold sand near Hana that Michener called the most perfect in the Pacific.
Events
- Feb
Maui Whale Festival
Talks, a run and a whale day in Kihei during peak season.
- Jun
Kapalua Wine and Food Festival
Chefs and winemakers on the west side in June.
- Nov
Makahiki season
The Hawaiian season of peace and games from November to February.
For remote workers
A comfortable month: about €3,800
Maui is the most expensive place on this map to live and one of the most rewarding to work from for a month: reliable fibre in Kihei and Lahaina, a time zone that fits an early European evening, and the ocean at the end of every street. Visa rules for foreigners are the same as the mainland.
Compare as a baseFor families
The leeward beaches at Kaanapali, Wailea and Kihei are calm in the mornings and pick up wind after lunch. Turtles at Ho’okipa, whales from December to April, the Road to Hana and the sunrise on Haleakalā keep every age busy. The hospital in Kahului is good.
Rank for your familyThree things to know
- April, May, September and October avoid both the winter surf and the summer rates.
- Rent a car, book Haleakalā sunrise online in advance and start the Hana road by seven.
- Poke from a fish counter, shave ice in the afternoon and a plate lunch of kalua pork are the local staples.