
Africa & Middle East · Morocco
Marrakech
A hundred thousand date palms, a red city and the Atlas mountains as a backdrop.
Marrakech is the pink city at the edge of the desert, with snow on the mountains behind it in winter and palms in front. The medina is a maze of souks and riads around a square that turns into a food market every evening, and the Palmeraie outside the walls is the grove that gave the city its shade for a thousand years. Come in spring or autumn, sleep inside a riad courtyard and let the calls to prayer set your clock.
The palm: Date palm
The Palmeraie north of the medina was planted in the 11th century, legend says from date stones spat out by the soldiers of the Almoravid army. Around 100,000 palms remain, fed by underground khettara channels. Riad courtyards grow their own, and Yves Saint Laurent’s Majorelle garden set palms against the blue that now carries his name.
When to go
Sights
Jemaa el-Fnaa
The square: orange juice stalls by day, storytellers, musicians and a hundred grills by night.
Jardin Majorelle
Cactus, palms and cobalt blue walls, with the Yves Saint Laurent museum next door.
Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs
Tiled courtyards and cedar ceilings in the southern medina.
The Atlas and Imlil
An hour to the trailhead villages below Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak.
Beaches
Essaouira
The windy Atlantic port three hours west, with a long beach, camels and kitesurfers.
Oualidia
A lagoon with calm water and oysters, between Essaouira and Casablanca.
Agadir
Morocco’s resort coast, three and a half hours south, with a sheltered bay and winter sun.
Events
- Nov
Marrakech International Film Festival
Late November screenings in the square and the Palais des Congrès.
- Mar
Ramadan
Dates shift each year; the medina is quiet by day and comes alive after sunset.
- Jul
Marrakech Popular Arts Festival
Berber dancers and musicians in the Badi palace ruins.
For remote workers
A comfortable month: about €1,300
Marrakech has cheap riads by the month, decent 4G and fibre in Guéliz, and a scattering of coworkings. Most European passports get 90 days on arrival. Spring and autumn are the working seasons; July afternoons pass 37 degrees. Essaouira on the coast, three hours away, is cooler and has its own remote crowd.
Compare as a baseFor families
No sea here, so pick a riad or hotel with a pool. Children love the square at night, the snake charmers from a distance, camel rides in the Palmeraie and the Ouzoud waterfalls day trip. Private clinics are good; take normal precautions with street food.
Rank for your familyThree things to know
- Stay in a riad in the medina for the courtyard and the roof, and let them arrange an airport transfer.
- Agree taxi fares before you get in, and learn the word for no thanks, la shukran.
- March to May and October to November give 25 degree days and cool nights; a jacket for the evenings.