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The Faraglioni rocks of Capri at sunset with a boat passing
The Faraglioni of Capri at sunset

Europe · Italy

Capri & the Amalfi Coast

Lemons, cliffs, boats and palms on terraces above the bluest water in Italy.

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The Amalfi Coast is a cliff road with towns stuck to it, and Capri is the island four miles offshore that emperors and film stars chose. Nothing here is flat, everything is photographed, and it still works: the light on the water, the smell of lemons on the steps, lunch on a terrace above the boats. Go in May or late September, arrive by ferry, and walk.

The palm: Date palm

Palms arrived with the Romans, who built villas on Capri, and again with the 19th century gardeners of the Gardens of Augustus. The terraces of Positano and Ravello mix date palms and Washingtonias with lemon pergolas and bougainvillea, a Mediterranean garden style copied worldwide.

When to go

°Crainsea January: 13°C by day, 9 rainy days, sea 15°C13°February: 13°C by day, 8 rainy days, sea 14°C13°March: 15°C by day, 8 rainy days, sea 14°C15°April: 18°C by day, 7 rainy days, sea 15°C18°May: 22°C by day, 5 rainy days, sea 18°C22°June: 26°C by day, 3 rainy days, sea 22°C26°July: 29°C by day, 2 rainy days, sea 25°C29°August: 29°C by day, 3 rainy days, sea 26°C29°September: 26°C by day, 6 rainy days, sea 24°C26°October: 22°C by day, 8 rainy days, sea 21°C22°November: 17°C by day, 10 rainy days, sea 18°C17°December: 14°C by day, 10 rainy days, sea 16°C14°JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Typical daytime highs, rainy days per month (one drop is about four days) and sea temperature. Green bars are comfortable months, amber bars are hot or wet or cool, and the darker bars mark the best time to go.

Sights

Gardens of Augustus, Capri

Terraces of palms and flowers above the Faraglioni and the hairpin Via Krupp.

Ravello

Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone 350 metres above the sea, with a terrace of infinity that Gore Vidal called the most beautiful view in the world.

Path of the Gods

A cliff walk from Bomerano to Nocelle, three hours above Positano.

Pompeii and Herculaneum

Both reachable by the Circumvesuviana train from Sorrento in under an hour.

Beaches

  • Marina Piccola, Capri

    Small pebble beaches below the Faraglioni, with beach clubs and swimming platforms.

  • Fornillo, Positano

    The quieter beach a ten minute cliff path west of the main one.

  • Marina di Praia

    A slot between the cliffs at Praiano with a beach, a boat harbour and two restaurants.

Events

  • Jul

    Ravello Festival

    Concerts on the terrace of Villa Rufolo from July into September.

  • Jun

    Regatta of the Maritime Republics

    Amalfi hosts every fourth year, with a rowing race and a costumed parade.

  • Jun

    Sant’Andrea, Amalfi

    On 27 June the statue is run up the cathedral steps by bearers at full sprint.

For remote workers

Internet3/5

A comfortable month: about €2,600

This is a place for a fortnight, not a season. Ferries stop in bad weather, the hills eat laptops and rents are high. Sorrento is the practical base with trains to Naples and reliable fibre; from there Capri and Positano are day trips by boat.

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For families

Calm water3/5
Shade2/5
Medical care4/5

Beaches are small, pebbly and reached by steps or boat, which suits teenagers more than toddlers. The rewards are boat days, the Blue Grotto, Pompeii and the best pizza and ice cream in the country. Sorrento and Maiori are the easiest bases with children.

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Three things to know

  1. Ferries from Naples, Sorrento and Salerno beat the coast road, which jams from June to September.
  2. Book restaurants with a view for lunch, not dinner; the light is the point and lunch is cheaper.
  3. The last week of September has warm sea, open beach clubs and half the crowds.